Accademia del Profumo n. 27: the nominations for 2016

The competition came into being with the intent of showcasing the innovation and the creative proposals of the new fragrances launched on the Italian market, to promote perfume and favour the growth of the Italian firms that operate in the sector.

This year too consumers can join in and elect the best perfume of the year, voting via different channels (500 Italian perfumeries who have joined the undertaking with the flyer “ring and win”, the minisite dedicated to the competition, the Facebook page and the new Accademia del Profumo App).
And if a technical jury will assign an award for the best olfactory creation, best perfume made in Italy, best niche perfume, best packaging, the jury made up of VIPs (presided over by TV host Filippa Lagerback) will vote the best communication.
The winners’ award ceremony will take place during an event scheduled in April in Milan.
Meanwhile, faithful to tradition, ItaliaImballaggio provides full info on the competing products.

Alaïa Paris
The fabulous musky flowered perfume created by Marie Salamagne for the Tunisian couturier Azzedine Alaïa (perfumer Firmenich), Martin Szekely has designed a cladding as precious as a sculpture, featuring a striking cabouchon in gold thread: much more than a jewel.
A few elements suffice to evoke absolute beauty and to re-evoke the designer’s mythical “houpette” (stretch clad visco-elastic memory foam): the heavy body in translucid black glass, engraved on the front and back with the famous laser-cut motif; the pink gold thread reel at the tope; the intense flesh-coloured case featuring a sober lettering of the elegant brand.
Distributor: Beauté Prestige International

Chanel Chance Eau Vive
Fresh and sparkling, energetically fun, this flowery and citrussy perfume by Oliver Polge, featured in a flat crystal circle typical of the Chance line by Chanel. A few details make the bottle chic: the aerial colored transparency of the powdery pink liquid, the thin dip tube that divides the almost perfect round of the container, the shiny metal strip, the glace effect of the squared tope, the striking steel label engraved on the base of the container… And the pearly case in elegant colours, with the relief wording and the sumptuous insides, perfect up to the last detail.
Distributor: Chanel


Miss Dior
François Demachy has created a palpitating essence for Dior, that opens with fizzy notes of mandarin to reach the inebriant base of patchouli, and that is presented in a packaging that deploys all the classic French elegance. A mix of rigour and highly precious, dashing squared crystal refined by the sculpted base and the metal flourish, with the sober label sported in the niche hollowed in the flacon. And outside, the case framed by the detailed classic pattern: in the smooth texture, offset by the embossing on the flanks, in the imitation front label with the brand that stands out in relief on the thin base of silver mesh.
Distributor: Parfums Christian Dior

Want
Cheekily excessive the packaging designed by Dean & Dan Caten (Dsquared2) for the audacious and feminine woman of their imagination. Ingredients: the enormous ivory colour spherical cap, that rests on the rounded shoulders of the Bormioli Luigi bottle; the broad golden fascia the surrounds the glass, embellished by the great trademark engraved in black; the symphony of flower-oriental notes with a head of ginger and pepper, composed by Aurélien Guichard and made by Firmenich. With the categorical WANT in capital letters, in relief on the gilded front of the case signed Cartotecnica Goldprint.   
Distributor: ITF - Angelini Beauty


Marquetry
Classic “tattooed” Etro style bottle for the new oriental Marquetry, created by  Jacques Flori and made by Robertet. The recurrent monogram, the characteristic Paisley motif, is stylised on the glass and embossed on the elegant metal top. It evokes distant mysteries and harks back to the mastery of the d’antan artisans, capable of composing fragments of wood and stone, lacquers and mother-of-pearl into dream masterpieces.
Distributor: Etro


Emozione
 A different packaging for the new women’s range dedicated by Salvatore Ferragamo to proud and authentic women, with a flowery woody and powdery identity, elegant and balanced as the brand demands. Composed by Alberto Morillas and Amandine Marie, with Patrick Veillet as creator of the precious pack in skin coloured chamois.
Many its distinguishing features: the slender multimaterial bottle, where glass, metal and “skin effect” polymers offer themselves to sight, scent and touch; the irregular profile of the niche that contains the golden liquid displays uniqueness and craftsmanship; the golden shoulders, silhouettes and studs, and aboveall the long chain with the designer’s stirrup icon. Elements and colors are masterly reproduced on a perfect case.
Distributor: Ferragamo Parfums

Gucci Bamboo
Only apparently slender but flexibly indestructible, the slim bamboo is evoked as an open symbol of femininity. Gucci dedicates to her this flowery eau de parfum on sandalwood base, and enclosed in packaging designed by Frida Giannini: an Art Déco line diamond of frosted glass, that culminates in a brilliant knot of metallic bamboo. And on the case, a mysterious rose acts as a base to the two Guccio Gucci Gs, entwined like a silver bamboo stem.              
Distributor: P&G Prestige


Rose Amazone
Fizzy and surprising, acidulous and also tender, the citrussy and fruity perfume created by Jean-Claude Ellena for the maison of the saddler-couturier Thierry Hermès. It is enhanced by the live orange of the case, that bears the mythical logo of the designer, and the rounded albeit slender bottle. The label shows its double face, classical and vital, of the product and the women to which it is dedicated: the chariot of the divine messenger on the front and printed on the back, shown in transparency, the effigy of the tall beautiful Amazon woman who faces onto modernity galloping free rein towards the world.
(packaging by Martin Székely).        
Distributor: Clarins Italia


Jour d’Hermès Gardénia
The famous nose of Jean-Claude Ellena and the sculptural sensitivity of packaging designer Pierre Hardy have led to the creation of this perfume with a Fiorita Verde identity and its original and dedicated bouquet. The massive bottle has the same structural characteristics of the previous Jour d’Hermès, with the signature of the designer displayed in reverse on the thick base, featuring an alluring pale aniseed green liquid. White, gold and solar the embossed regal case, with coffee coloured hue structured inside.         
Distributor: Clarins Italia


Miu Miu
Cheeky and pop like a sixties party, classical and eccentric together, the first perfume that Miuccia (Prada) presents with her own griffe. And also contrasted by green and sweet notes the fragrance of Daniela Andrier for Givaudan, contained in an incredible opaque blue glass flacon, with “matelassé” stitching and finishing off with a white matt collar. And the top? Nothing less than gold, crowned by a psychedelic red halo. Young, feminine, fun and cool.
Distributor: Coty Italia


L’Absolu for her
A striped linen cotton cloth dark maroon    case, illuminated by essential pink wording, opens onto the iconic bottle by Narciso Rodriguez. That here reinterprets his first perfume with the aid of Aurélien Guichard and, with few skilful chords of intense humours, creates a new essence, equally luxurious. Featuring the characteristic massive bottle with essential lines, with the colour filling the tapered niche that hovers in transparent crystal, and the large black top, “worn” with nonchalant elegance.         
Distributor: Beauté Prestige International


Olympéa
Divinely woman, queen of queens, Olympéa di Paco Rabanne. The perfume is an unusual olfactory experience, an encounter between the sensuality of salted vanilla and the freshness of the floreal notes. And the packaging designed by Marc Ange is full of symbolism. The Rome born designer plays with codes of antiquity associated to an ultra-contemporary aesthetics, to create an elegant and original flacon. Talisman, victory trophy, dystonic synthesis of reality and imagination.
Distributor: Puig Italia


Noir pour Femme
To his femme en noir Tom Ford dedicates an opulent floreal fragrance with sensual and exotic scents, that comes in an oval flacon in an opaque, black, ridged glass. Rigorous and seductive at the same time, it features the T and F initial of the designer carved into the sides of the bottle, the precious, fiery gold of the broad, quality top and the brand reproduced in the smooth window on the front of the container. An audacious shiny case echoes the motifs of the flacon, echoing its aesthetics and its mood.
Distributor: Estée Lauder


Valentino Donna
For the new women’s perfume, the maison turned to the nose of Antoine Maisondieu and Sonia Constant created a packaging that follows the classic canon of timeless elegance. Hence  the small ‘studded’, sculptural bottle - to the point of re-echoing the rustication of the old Roman palazzi - and it is illuminated  and countered by the kind pale pink of the perfume. The cap and gold plaque ornate and embellish the container, interpreting the Valentino esprit at its best.
Distributor: Puig Italia


Goldea
The fragrance created by Alberto Morillas for Bulgari is an exceptional olfactory journey amidst seductive oriental notes, floral nuances and the softness of white musk. It is dedicated to a woman of surprising modernity, daring to the extreme, the talented creator of her own life, charismatic and provocative. Tribute to the eternal and divine woman, Goldea is pervaded by gold and by the light that emanates from the packaging. The bottle is at one and the same time gem and anthropomorphic figure, an idealised Cleopatra in clear, curvaceous lines. The body is the large drop of clear glass set in a golden ring that extends its boundaries. Embellished by the chiseled “choker”, the face (the cap) emits a powerful, solar energy.
Distributor: Bulgari Italy


Armani Privé Ambre Eccentrico
A name, a bottle: dark, mysterious, very private, surmounted by the irregular shapes of a large drop of the precious fossil. The Armani/Privé Collection is enriched by the vibrant sophistication of Ambre Eccentric, with its amber chord  made even more surprising by the facets of cinnamon and prunol rind, ingredients that have enchanted the couturist for their spicy notes of ripe peaches, reminiscent of an Italian summer.
Distributor: Helena Rubinstein Italy


Bonbon
From Viktor & Rolf a story to be worn for the sheer delight and pleasure of it, savouring the caramel base notes that are transformed, little by little, into an oriental fruity symphony. The packaging is indeed admirable: for this perfume, the masters of Pochet du Courval glassware achieved a bottle that though entailed the overcoming of extreme technical difficulties. With the glass bow made with a patented and complex process, its outlines are shaded in pink with a precise technical degradé. The level of the sides of the bottle has been raised by injecting air to form the flaps and folds of the bow, ensuring the even blowing of the glass in every part of the mould and in order to make the central knot perfect. A year of work, to demonstrate that even the impossible is possible.
Distributor: L’Oréal Prodotti di Lusso Italia


Acqua di Parma Colonia Ambra
When a fragrance becomes a journey to the origin of the rarest essences: ambergris, deftly combined with fresh citrus, is the basic ingredient of the new sensory experience offered by Acqua di Parma for sophisticated men devoid of preconceptions, curious about the past but focused on the present.
The unmistakable art déco bottle and austere, refined colors embody the value of masculine elegance: the label’s bronze highlights illuminate the tobacco tones of the top and bottle (the latter made from the purest glass). The essential design and, again, tobacco tones of the casket, coated by hand with premium paper, is discretely embellished with a satin lining inside, in the best Italian artisan tradition.
Distributor: Acqua di Parma


Acqua di Parma Colonia Club
François Demachy imagined the aromatic/green olfactory dimension of Colonia Club, creating a unique composition, refined and surprising, a perfect union of passion and style, as in a sophisticated and harmonious dressage performance. Hence the unusual choice of full green for the fragrance’s entire packaging, evoking the exclusive atmosphere of an elite private club: the Art Déco bottle, the top, the glossy label and handcrafted cylindrical embossed paper case... all reminiscent of the informal, perfectionist elegance of the refined men found there. The fragrance embodies freshness, dynamism, activity and at the same time nobility and deference for tradition, which lives on in the label, which bears the perfume’s name between the logo and the Acqua di Parma escutcheon.
Distributor: Acqua di Parma


BLEU DE CHANEL Eau de Parfum
Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite color, navy blue, endless, deep and boundless, inspired the creation of Jacques Polge, who with Bleu de Chanel Eau de Parfum makes a more intense version of the eau de toilette from 2010. Same ingredients, different formula. This time, amber wood aromas like sandalwood and Haitian vetiver dominate zesty notes, softened by vanilla and tonka beans from Venezuela. The bottle remains nearly identical: angular, wide shouldered profile, austere and elegant, in blue glass, vibrant and almost black. The detail that makes the difference is the glossy top, embellished with a magnetic click closure. 
Distributor: Chanel


Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Extreme
Made by Antoine Maisondieu and Daniela Andrier, Pour Homme Extreme is a fragrance that balances contrasting notes and essences. Rare and balsamic ingredients, labdanum and pimento stand out from a traditional base of woody and leather aromas, with a brief, zesty sojourn in the Dolomites.
The bottle takes up the soft curves and vigorous lines of Bottega Veneta Pour Homme: the compact bottle with a full bottom, with a “braided” base, matt black and luxurious to the touch, inspired by the forms of Venetian glassmaking and the traditional Italian carafe. The austere label and the fine, light, dimpled box take up the discrete masculinity of the perfumery’s collections for men.
Distributor: Coty Italia


Dior Sauvage
Focused, primitive, natural, Dior Sauvage is a fragrance at once noble and rude. Its creator François Demachy personalized its key ingredient, bergamot from Reggio Calabria, with a pepper aftertaste, slightly bitter to accentuate its virile character.
From the paperboard box (glossy, brilliant front that plays on the matt surface of other sides) emerges the curved elegance of the bottle, embellishing the forceful masculinity of the fluid. The dark blue glass, like deep night, evolves into a smoky transparency: a thin layer of silver dust on the walls of the bottle creates a delicate mirror effect. The initials “C.D.” are engraved on the bottom of the bottle and printed on the top of the magnetic top, which is pleated and lacquered black (and reveals a little surprise inside…).
Distributor: LVMH Italia


Intenso Dolce & Gabbana
The D&G man is strong because he expresses his emotions with frankness and intensity. Just like Intenso, a fragrance that presents itself with aquatic and green notes before plunging into a woody heart dominated by the accord of milkwood, a sensual balsamic essence, an original olfactory discovery by D&G.
The classic bottle with curved profile is one color: a very dark tobacco brown for the lacquered glass, where the fragrance’s name and stylists’ brand appear printed in clean copper gold lettering. The same color scheme and graphics are used on the elegant die, coated with precious soft velvet.
Distributor: P&G Prestige


Velvet Exotic Leather
Sensual and refined, the black leather accord is what holds this woody/powdery fragrance that is part of Dolce&Gabbana’s Velvet Collection. Notes of incense and olibanum then confer the unmistakable, enveloping warmth of men’s skin, leaving a persistent memory. The sumptuous double casket/outer box in black paperboard with a movable face containing a velvet chest - is almost a jewelry casket. Once opened, it reveals a bottle containing the amber fluid, resembling rum, suspended in the transparency of the full glass. Atop the angular bottle sits a round top with suede and metal finish. The whole ensemble evokes exotic environments, vaguely colonial and retro. This is matched by a metallic plate, gold like the plaques on the top and with faux bolts in relief, which frames the name of the fragrance on the bottle like a treasure chest.
Distributor: P&G Prestige


Io myself
The Italian pronoun ironically reinforced by the English reflexive embodies the quintessential Etro man: a contemporary hero who, as the firm’s motto goes (“faithful to love and to beauty”), opposes egotism. He is a sensitive soul oriented toward overcoming self, the “I, Myself”, flaunting a deep, delicate feminine side.
Jacques Flori has created this subtly androgynous bouquet that bridges the chemistry of essential oils and mythology, unleashing a novel and zesty array of papyrus, lemon, bergamot and mandarin tones. In the bottle, wrapped in a leaf of silver paisleys, the fluid heart is warmed by the embrace of Damask rose and saffron.
Distributor: Etro


The Scent
The Hugo Boss man knows that seduction is a slow and refined game, a pleasure to be savored (passion whispered can be more powerful than a shout). Hence the origin of The Scent, scintillating with irresistible emotions and aromas: a spicy note of ginger introduces the aphrodisiac heart in the form of an exclusive ingredient from Africa (Maninka fruit), combined with essence of leather, the virile bass note.
A glossy designer silhouette on the brown box introduces the (post?) modern design of this glass bottle. The glass is sculpted with vertical metal grooves that appear fused to the base and top. From one angle, the bottle’s shape resembles a classical column; from another it is reminiscent of a cage, entrapping the amber elixir’s energetic power before it is unleashed.
Distributor: P&G Prestige


For Men Michael Kors
A harmony of urban sophistication and rugged style, the new fragrance for men by Michael Kors is inspired by hot Oriental climes and the charm of a dynamic, modern, unstoppable man.
This woody fragrance with spiced notes and herbaceous aromas tinges a thick glass bottle an amber hue. The glass is minimalist and forceful, playing with clean lines and stark contrasts. The imitation horn top is squared and black with a chrome finish and completes the bottle’s geometry. The impeccable neutral gray of the paperboard box is the backdrop for the vertical lettering of the fragrance and brand names.
Distributor: Estée Lauder


Narciso Rodriguez for him bleu noir
Mysterious and essential, overwhelming and luminous. Decidedly sensual. The musk (unmistakeable signature of the couturier Narciso Rodriguez) enriched by fresh and spicy chords excites heart and mind. Best interpreting an extraordinary composition, sign of a natural and spontaneous mens’ elegance, the glass bottle returns the play on transparency so dear to the master: the deep blue of the parallelepiped emerges as if by magic from the unique process of the inner varnish, set off by the purity of the design and the sizeable cabochon. One is struck by the elegant discretion of the ink blue needlecord cardboard blank.
Distributor: Beauté Prestige International


Acqua Essenziale Colonia
Vital, refined... and therefore essential. Created by Alberto Morillas (Firmenich), the woody/zesty fougère of Salvatore Ferragamo’s eau de toilette emerges in a triumph of aquatic accords, accentuated by the freshness of bergamot. The firm applies the same modernity to a packaging that plays on silvers and grays: the precise clean lines of the bottle, decorated with the surprising motif of horizontal rows, where the rectangular silver label is affixed. The die, which reproduces the same look as the bottle, has a glossy finish with the logo printed in relief. The communication is strictly black and white, as avant-garde elegance demands.
Distributor: Ferragamo Parfums


Venetian Bergamot
Tom Ford’s singular interpretation of the ingredient known as the “prince of citrus,” upending the traditional view of bergamot as an ingredient in the classic zesty and citrusy eau de cologne. Venetian Bergamot reveals sensual and resinous base notes that contrast the freshness of the top, transporting the senses from the sun-drenched aromas of southern Italy to the palazzos and canals of Venice, crossroads of trade and spices.
The Private Blend bottle is also inspired by the past, specifically traditional apothecary jars. It is available in various formats: 50 ml, slim and solid like a pawn from a chess set; the 100ml and luxury magnum bottle (250 ml) are monumental. Gold is the common motif that draws the whole packaging together: glimmering on labels and lettering, it also peeps out from beneath the rigid box’s square bottom.
Distributor: Estée Lauder


Blue Land Trussardi
Fresh and sensual, the eau de toilette created by Alexandra Kosinski for the Trussardi man is a “blue arrow” pointing the way to freedom and the most pristine nature. Elegant, modern and luminous, the bottle is a synthesis of handcrafting and technology: the glass divides to create a “bubble in suspension” through which the fragrance shows blue, confirming the renowned aesthetic (taken up from the previous My Land) and a unique production process that has enabled placing the opening of the bottle lower than the shoulder. A band of authentic Made in Italy leather - also blue - protects and embellishes the outer edge of the bottle (Verreries Pochet du Courval). Atop sits a copolyester spray cap (Aptar Beauty & Home), metalized with UV varnish that brings out the brilliance and glimmer of the silver.
The box (Cartotecnica Goldprint) is printed with an antiquated blue (Iggesund Metalprint G), while the hot foil finish echoes the bottle, with the Trussardi family crest and name of the fragrance on the front, both in silver relief obtained using a micro-engraved plate.
Distributore: ITF - Angelini Beauty


Collistar AcquaWood
The natural elegance of Collistar’s AcquaWood (born out of the creative inspiration of Daphne Bugey) is inspired by the aromatic scents of the Mediterranean, heated by a twist of precious woody and spicy notes emanating strength and magnetism.
The bottle sports a warm, brilliant, amber- and copper coated shade, which enhances the geometric rigor of the external profile. The glass from which the bottle is made, which in transparency reveals its liquid core, tapering from the base to the shoulder, proffers a gentle symmetry. The discreet cylinder of the metal cap, the copper colour chrome-plating are decorated with barely traced horizontal pleats.
Distributor: Collistar


Acqua di Giò Profumo
Mineral. Intense. Rich in contrasts. Acqua di Gio fragrance echoes the sea’s encounter with volcanic rock. In this version signed by Alberto Morillas, the freshness of bergamot and marine notes blend beautifully with the seductive depth of the millennial scent, much loved by Giorgio Armani.
The bottle with broad shoulders with rounded borders bears the classic elegance of mat black, lit up by flashes of color on the cap and the base, echoed in the silver inscriptions on the front.
Distributor: Helena Rubinstein