Accademia del Profumo 2014: candidates & packagings

The flacons and cases, the colors and symbols of fragrances launched on the market during the course of the last year, competing for the award recognizing the best perfumes, communication and, of course, packaging. Voting takes place online, at retail locations or during the next Cosmoprof.

A partnership between the Accademia del Profumo and Vogue Italia seals the 25th edition of the awards and celebrates the marriage of fashion and perfume. Consumers are tasked with electing the best men’s and women’s fragrances of the year on the Accademia del Profumo Facebook page and at Italian perfume shops in the Profuma Positivo! network, or directly at Cosmoprof Worldwide (Bologna, April 4th – 7th).
Alongside the public, a jury of VIPs presided over by Carla Sozzani and an expert jury made up of specialists in industry, distribution and the media will elect the masculine and feminine winners of the awards recognizing best scent, best Made in Italy perfume, best niche perfume, best packaging and best communication.
 

FEMALE - Acqua Nobile Iris, Acqua di Parma - Dolce & Gabbana Desire (P&G Prestige) - Bulgari Omnia Crystalline (Bulgari Italia) - Dolce & Gabbana Intense (P&G Prestige) - Rajasthan, Etro - Fendi L’Acquarossa (LVMH Italia) - Sì, Gorgio Armani (Helena Rubinstein Italia) - Gucci Guilty Black (P&G Prestige) - Nuit pour femme, Hugo Boss (P&G Prestige) - Jour d’Hermès (Clarins Italia) - Honey, Marc Jacob (Coty Italia div. Coty Prestige) - Pomellato Nudo Amber (ITF) - Marni (Estée Lauder) - Serge Lutens, La fille de Berlin (Shiseido Cosmetici Italia) - Trussardi My Name (ITF) - YSL Manifesto L’Elixir (L’Oréal Italia) - MALE - Armani Privé Myrrhe Impériale (Helena Rubinstein Italia) - Bottega Veneta pour homme (Coty Italia div. Coty Prestige) - Bulgari man Extreme (Bulgari Italia) - Colonia Intensa Oud, Acqua di Parma - Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Desert Oud (P&G Prestige) - Dior Homme Cologne (LVMH Italia) - Potion Blue Cadet, Dsquared2 (ITF) - Acqua Essenziale, Salvatore Ferragamo (Ferragamo Parfums) - Armani Eau de Nuit (Helena Rubinstein Italia) - Givenchy Gentlemen Only (LVMH Italia) - Gucci Made to Measure (P&G Prestige) - Paco Rabanne, Invictus (Puig Italia) - Spicebomb, Viktor&Rolf (Helena Rubinstein Italia)
 

Acqua Nobile Iris, Acqua di Parma
The ingredients are traditional: the transparency of the glass crystal, the thickness (and the weight) of the material, the pure classic lines, the graceful lettering of the logo, and masterly case. The result, as always, aristocratic. Having removed the protective sleeve, having raised the violet bas of the luminous cyclindrical case, statuary, severe and light together, the conical bottle appears decorated with the glass fluting, with the silver top and label. With a radiant liquid with floreal and citrussy notes.

 

Dolce & Gabbana Desire (P&G Prestige)
Written in lively handwriting by Stefano Gabbana, it immediately becomes a logo. The name of the perfume, silkscreened in gold on a black background, fills the entire front side of the shimmering bottle.

And it reappears on the lacquered glass surmounted by the large cap - nearly a hat - in the form of a cut gemstone set in gold. Two colors and a few basic features suffice to create the sophisticated and feminine assembly that holds this intriguing oriental floral fragrance, personified by a radiantly blonde Scarlett Johansson in a black evening gown.

 

Bulgari Omnia Crystalline (Bulgari Italia)
Soft as velvet, resplendent like rock crystal, this eau de parfum with a lotus heart is presented in the classic Bulgari “knot”, a composition of ancient and modern materials superbly metallized with rose gold - the same which, on the clear bottom, illuminates the classic and elegant silhouette. To contrast, the symbols of classical antiquity: the two half circles compose the One, perfection, infinity, air - the archetypal element of freedom, movement, elevation.


Dolce & Gabbana Intense (P&G Prestige)
The mystique of the Mediterranean lights a fire of passion and Intense is born. A unique blend of nobile white flowers on a sensual core, the perfume is presented in a flock-printed carton of irresistible bordeaux velvet, soft to the touch and on the heart. The precisely angular bottle confirms the power evoking color and gold and tapers until the characteristic classic cap with a wide golden neck.

Rajasthan, Etro
The total body decoration, obtained through an exclusive sublimation process, coats the Rajasthan bottle with paisley motifs, revealing a world of colors beneath a black and violet case.

The case made from robust board is embellished by an intricate pattern of sinuous leaf which, when the long vertical body is lifted out, unleashes the bottle set in the base’s niche. The timeless grace of a sari and the vortex of India that emerges, composed in a harmonious promise of summer.

Fendi L’Acquarossa (LVMH Italia)
Mastroianni (Chiara); the color is red, the color of passion, imperial Rome, the sunset behind the Pincian hill, the perfume’s name itself...

And of the ineffable texture that covers a quadrangular chic flacon, with a golden base and a cap that reproduces the closure of the Pekaboo it-bag. Red on red also decorates the box, which also employs pequin stripes, originally a canvas pattern for Roman sisters’ purses, only to migrate to the other materials of Fendi creations.

Sì, Gorgio Armani (Helena Rubinstein Italia)
A anthropomorphic cabochon seals the heavy and delicate flacon of the fragrance for women who know how to say “Sì” to life. A scent and a packaging that together embody grace and strength, starting with the delicate carton suffused with flesh pink, with the product logo finely painted in the middle. The same duality is found in the heavy flacon with its harmoniously rounded lines, made precious by the golden and transparent pink hues of the liquid, and by the thin ring on which rests the black cap.

Gucci Guilty Black (P&G Prestige)
A red heart darkened by passion looks out from a window carved from the double “G” of Gucci Guilty on the black wall that coats the glass: a bottle in a Black variant, taking up the motifs of the Guilty line and playing them in the transgressive/sensual register with the help of technology.


The glossy black bottle has a logo bordered with deep red, underlined by the gold-tinted logo of this orient-inspired fragrance.

Nuit pour femme, Hugo Boss (P&G Prestige)
Total darkness and pure light for the femme en noir to whom this fascinating bouquet of feminine flowers and bubbling notes is dedicated. Composed of a thin flacon that winks at the unsurpassable black tube and demonstrates perfect execution.

The transparent top multiplies volumes and luminosity, and the smooth silhouette with golden hues makes the packaging irresistible in its regal simplicity.

Jour d’Hermès (Clarins Italia
Golden light, precious bubble suspended on the massive glass crystal base that acts as a lens on the name of the perfume printed on the back. It is the light of day of Hermès, mythical signature of haute couture and mythical messenger of the Gods.

His sign, engraved on the top and embossed at the centre of the candid die, encompasses the initials of the designer amidst the symbols of the God, evoking eternity and the supernatural. The graceful, solid bottle, designed by Pierre Hardy, can be recharged.
 

 

Honey, Marc Jacob (Coty Italia div. Coty Prestige)
Honey or polka-dot sweetness. Marc Jacob revisits the extraordinary spherical bottle with butterflies disguised as bees, with a pearl heart, a precious toy for a cheerful and radiant woman.

Everything about this product embodies exuberance: the roundness of the handmade bottle and the playful cap, the two winged sculptures, the interplay of thick lines and giant polka dots, the palette of yellows that colors the liquid, the closure and the large, fun carton decorated with little black dots.

Pomellato Nudo Amber (ITF)
A gem of Madeira quartz set with the jeweler’s gold signature tag, surmounted by a fine cap with metallic base and illuminated by an extraordinary amber hue.

The same hue is found, dimmed and metallized, on the bottom of the box, a worthy treasure chest decorated in relief by a fresco by Michael Lin. Lively and energetic are the best adjectives for this third fragrance in the trilogy Pomellato Nudo, after those associated with London Blue Topaz and Rose de France Amethyst

Marni (Estée Lauder)

Elegance and originality, sense of the material and the taste for design, dialectic play of abstraction and sensuality, attention to coherence and perfection in every detail… The personality of Consuelo Castiglioni reverberates in the subtle fragrance and in the pictorial packaging of Marni, that wins you over right from the graphical and multisensorial die of “harmonic contrasts”, gloss/opaque, smooth/embossed, white/black, neutral/colored..

Within, placed on the carton core that stabilized the flacon, a sober leaflet introduces the line of products and lastly, the bottle: broad and tapered, enlivened by screenprinted polka dots, where the lively brand in red lacquer stands out from the  “hammered” base of the label set in a niche.

Serge Lutens, La fille de Berlin (Shiseido Cosmetici Italia)
Lutens completes the trilogy of the rose with an “expressionist” perfume, inspired by the dramatic and contrasted culture of Berlin between the wars. Intense, surprising and peppery the fragrance; classic the sober die with its materic texture and thin glass bottle “alla Lutens”, lit by the explosive red of the liquid, that draws the outline of the inner couche.
Trussardi My Name (ITF)
The Trussardi greyhound peeps from an oval frame that surmounts the logo and represents the characteristic motif of these formidable ambassadors of Made in Italy.

It is reproduced in the dense interlace of the pearlescent carton colored inside with pink femininity, in the thin silver screen that wraps a sumptuous eliptical cap of perfumed fabric and, finally, once again in relief on the bottle designed by Antonio Citterio for this voluptous liquid with a lilac heart.

YSL Manifesto L’Elixir (L’Oréal Italia)
The finely hewn gold top and the array of diamonds girding its narrow cleft make the amethyst colored bottle the most precious of jewels. Or the most luminous of stars in a seductive constellation.

The new women’s fragrance bearing the name of Yves Saint Laurent fears neither luxury nor proud beauty: introduced by the elegant viola die, it is dedicated to the audacious, excessive, adored woman who will love this “extreme” perfume with an ultra-sensual heart of flowers, open to citrussy notes, resting on a velvet base.

Armani Privé Myrrhe Impériale (Helena Rubinstein Italia)
The rarefied aroma of myhrr unleashes the scents trapped within the golden sculpture that serves as a cap, balancing the rounded top.

The simple bottle, with a vivid burnt color, matches and supports the gold tag with the perfume’s name. The latest creation for “La Collection des Mille et une Nuits”.

Bottega Veneta pour homme (Coty Italia div. Coty Prestige)
A fresh and refined fragrance, suffused with rare resins on a sensual core of leathers. Bottega Veneta thus evokes the master craftsman’s workshop in which fine materials are expertly combined to make exclusive wares.

Like in the sober carton executed with the characteristic motif of the master tanner’s shop, in the smooth smoky glass body in the shape of a caraffe, in the kneck adorned with a soft stamped leather belt and closed with a satinated cap. And from the elegant bottom of the dark glass emerges the luminous logo, silkscreened with platinum.
 

Bulgari man Extreme (Bulgari Italia)
The Bulgari man goes Extreme and chooses a fresh and heady fragrance by Morillas that evokes imperial Rome as the beacon of culture and power. Everything in the monolithic silver and black glass container conjures up the values of manly vigor, from the brand’s lettering, which includes an upside-down victory “V”, a dear symbol for the designer, to the austere solemnity of its shape.

With a characteristically modern attention to the environment: for the bottle’s metallic coating, made using innovative hi-tech water-based varnish and subsequent lacquering, a unique installation was used in order to prevent dispersion of metallic particles. And, on the box, the play of the classic ticking intensifies the light of the silver, which is highlighted by the logo embossed on a black background.

Colonia Intensa Oud, Acqua di Parma
The Art Déco glass of the Acqua di Parma Cologne is tinted with the full hues of the tobacco to protect from the light the rare essence with a bouquet of middle eastern opulence.

A heavy glass just illuminated with the bronze colored label, steeped in the sumptuous silk that lines the case: extraordinary creation, hand coated with quality paper innervated like a leaf, protected and closed by a thick transparent handle.

Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Desert Oud (P&G Prestige)
A woody middle-eastern fragrance intense with incense, ambers and musks, competing for best men’s niche perfume with an adventurous modern packaging.

Characteristic features: the tag/label “nailed” onto the front of the bottle of quadrangular glass; the rounded and flared hollow base, brightened by the color of the perfume; the large burnished cap with gold highlights.

Dior Homme Cologne (LVMH Italia)
Direct, naked, disarmed and therefore strong, refined, demanding: the gaze of Robert Pattinson, face of Dior Homme, expresses forcefully the values of a brand capable of establishing the canon of elegance. And it does so with this surprising citrus fragrance, a case with sparse thin stripes and a gesture of blue that form immediate chic, in the decidedly original bottle.

Three elements are crucial: the milky mist conferred by the white shoulders of the parallelepipid; the loud cylinder that covers the syphon; the thin blue ring hidden by the top, which once revealed, lights up the silkscreen logo at the base of the flacon.

Potion Blue Cadet, Dsquared2 (ITF)
A woody aromatic potion. Blue like the liquid that colors the bottle and the beautiful woven box, with contrasting reliefs, hot prints, lucid and opaque graphics. Cadet like the new strength of the armed force, forged by training, proud to belong.

And the packaging? The company’s own, dominated by silkscreen reliefs with the name and contents of the perfume and the central niche that houses the self-adhesive with a list of ingredients. Other peculiar features: the grooves on the side like perfume bottles of the past, the ribbed zinc alloy cap and the logo carved out of the back face of the glass.

Acqua Essenziale, Salvatore Ferragamo (Ferragamo Parfums)
Authentic luxury in a refreshing and elegant perfume with a woody base, contained in a robust glass parallelipiped with forceful edges - the inside just barely visible, like a harmonious bust, and embellished by a pliant wave near the syphon.
Small marks of refinement in a solemn elegance, like the luminous silver signature tag, the resounding click of the closure, the heavy glass, symbolizing strength, the azure color of the fluid that dresses the whole bottle in blue sky. The same twighlit azure that colors a case that stands apart from the rest.
Armani Eau de Nuit (Helena Rubinstein Italia)
A black tie glass, an exclusive Bakelite top, the fret and metal base that interact from opposite ends, illuminating the bottle, a tasteful seal on the front of a flacon with a well-executed shoulder.

Just some finishing touches and the Armani logo is all it takes to make a refined packaging solution, transposed on the lucid bottom of the case, from which silver writing jumps out. Inside, a symphony of notes from the amber and woody perfume evoke the moment in which the light of day drifts into creeeping darkness.

Givenchy Gentlemen Only (LVMH Italia)
The man who is a gentleman but doesn’t need to say so, who plays with elegance and knows what courtesy is; a woody, classic, elegant and sensual fragrance; a heavy flacon that recalls the flat whiskey flask. All this is Gentlemen Only.

The bottle, introduced by an austere and chic carton, communicates importance with its weight and thick bottom, its glass kneck supporting a brushed metallic cap and a blue liquid fragrance that shimmers magnetically.

Gucci Made to Measure (P&G Prestige)
The typical designer graphics and colors, with Guccio’s elegant signature in the middle of the carton, and a heavy glass bottle with muted edges, tinted violet by the liquid.

Frida Giannini has designed a forceful packaging for an elegant perfume in which a sweet note insinuates itself and conquers. Inspired by the tailoring of exclusive productions, the packaging captures the eye with its commanding brushed metallic gold cap, refined by hand and surmounted by the ring that alludes to the iconic Gucci horsebit.

Paco Rabanne, Invictus (Puig Italia)
After the lighter and the lingot, Paco Rabanne presents another packaging-sculpture, here the luminosity of the vase and the flashes of the broad metal top give form to the trophy of victory, and the wings fly on the case.

That of Invictus, a vibrant woody freshness with “orgasmic chords” dedicated to the contemporary demigod: male athlete and never vanquished who redeems his humanity. Iconoclastic packaging designer Cédric Ragot.

Spicebomb, Viktor&Rolf (Helena Rubinstein Italia)
An olfactory explosion, a weapon of mass sedution, a bomb of sensuality... the spiced men’s version of the explosive Flowerbomb for women is presented in an elegant black and gray metallized carton, and then a burnt glass shaped like a grenade with a dispenser that must be “unlocked” (a pin must be pulled in order to release the fragrance).

Hard, masculine, ironic, fun, the whole is the sum of fine details that converge to draw the gaze to the central face of the bottle, which makes the luminous silver logo shimmer.

 

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