The science (and art) of beauty

FROM A TO Z Packaging design as a point of encounter between functionality, taste, technology and communication shows its full force in the applications of the cosmetics sector. We report some of the ideas and suggestions for packaging from PCD and ADF 2012, with some forays into the food sector.

Dynamic advertising Informative, compelling and entertaining, dynamic advertising is the last frontier of in-store promotion (display window or elsewhere), production display, and promotion at events. By harnessing the potential of original patented technologies, Comactive constructs virtual scenarios in which products and brands acquire new dimensions and evoke new messages. Its “windows” can be as small as a box or as large as a chest of drawers, still or animated, interactive or not…
	Beautiful and masculine Unilever follows up on the success of Axe deodorants (Lynx in Great Britain) by launching a range of hair care products for young men, consisting in shampoos and special products for styling. The new products are presented in highly distinctive packaging: 75 ml black jars developed ad hoc by Promens. The multinational, which operates in Italy through its subsidiary in Lainate (MI), designs and produces custom and standard containers. In this case, the concern created a jar with a distinctly masculine design, taking up the distinctive (and highly visible) features of previous Axe products, made from PE using injection-blowing and integrated by the label.
Luxury samples The PCD Awards recognize technological content in beauty packaging, but also concept originality, or the care required for a particular process. This is doubtless the case of the sample packaging for Chanel N# 19 Poudré, which won in the category “promotional samples”. The solution consists in a mini-casket made from 280 g of Iggesund’s Invercote board, containing the perfume in miniature, which when opened lifts two pop-up cards with the numbers 1 and 9. The luxury sample was assembled by Creanog, but only after the right adhesive from among the 15 tested had been selected, with all the care and expertise necessary for guaranteeing that the pop-ups are lifted at the same time and to the same position. In order to create 60 thousand caskets, 15-20 people were employed for 4 months, for a total of 4,200 hours of work.
From the Ukraine in 3D A unique invitation card was passed out to visitors: a flat paperboard case containing a pair of 3D glasses and a map of the fair with the stand’s location well marked. Everybody passed by, of course, in order to decode the message of the 3D posters, and learned that Ukrainian Aerosols LLC is the largest aerosol producer in its country, relying on technologies and competencies that enable it to serve the global user, including with custom projects. Its client portfolio confirms it, ISO 9001-2000 and 14000	approvals certify it and its machines seal the deal: among others, these include a Hinterkopf line operating at 240 pcs/min to produce aerosols of all sizes, in one piece and with subsequent embossing, offset printing and automated quality control; lines for tin aerosol cans (35 million pieces per year), Coster filling lines (10 million pieces/year); two laboratories, one for analysis and another (still being set up) for the production of cosmetics, perfumes and pharmaceuticals.
Eco-friendly Bormioli Rocco previews eco-friendly plastics at PCD 2012: biodegradable ones like PLA and high temperature PLA, recycled like PET-R and R-HDPE, renewable like eco-friendly PE and BioPET… The Emilian group’s plastic business unit has also expanded its catalog of standard containers with new lines, appealing in shape and with lyrical names: Alzira, made from square-bottomed PETG; Leonora, PETG and PE; Luisa, oval-bottomed PE for dispensing liquid soaps; Norma is a line of small flacons for hair and skin care products…
	Strong in innovation Expert in the design, manufacture and assembly of containers and complements for the beauty market, iPack (Packaging Innovation) offers a wide range of standard and special closures, among other things including 11 products based on their own patents. Among the latest products for top selective perfumery brands, specific solutions abound, which strongly characterize the identity of the product. In the picture, the famous “microphone closure” for Décibel by Azzaro.
Hi Tech, solvent free Paris Aerosol Award per Tubex, che all’ADF 2012 ha illustrato la propria, innovativa, tecnica di rivestimento interno delle bombolette aerosol. Si tratta di una soluzione “amica dell’ambiente”, basata sull’applicazione di un rivestimento in polvere solvent-free, dalle proprietà chimiche adeguate e dall’elevata resilienza meccanica. Il gruppo multinazionale (casamadre tedesca e una presenza organizzata in Europa, Russia e Cina) risulta, ad oggi, il solo produttore in grado di effettuare questo tipo di rivestimenti con un procedimento industriale; Beiersdorf lo sta adottando come standard per l’intera produzione in aerosol.
	Glass is renewed (and mixed) With its noble origins and traditions, glass dominates beauty packaging and conforms to market demand. We were given proof during the Parisian fair, where the award-winning Pochet et du Courval also showed for the first time, and where glassworks representatives addressed process eco-compatibility (Heinz and SGD), the infinite possibilities for decorating this material (Pochet), the characteristics and advantages of automated workflows (Verrerie Brosse of the Zignago group) and the potential for creating new products and shapes through technical mastery, a topic taken up in particular by Bormioli Rocco, which presides over the market with its Plastics and Glass divisions, and with its French subsidiary Les Verreries de Masnières, and Bormioli Luigi. There were also surprises: Bormioli Luigi itself presented a new line of Linkx® brand containers, achieved by overprinting a flacon made of Sparkx® glass (a material characterized by considerable resistance and transparency) with an external shell of Surlyn® 3D by DuPont (photo). The contrast between the two raw materials enables playing with shapes and colors to obtain completely new and surprising visual effects. These containers are the result of a joint effort by Bormioli Luigi and Pibiplast SpA, a Correggio (RE) concern specialized in injection moulding.
Leaflets and the like Edelmann unites its vast production of paper packaging for the various industrial sectors by offering leaflets that comply with EU guidelines, first of all in terms of readability. Often sophisticated, but always easy to read, they present a wide variety of formats, fold types, printing techniques and adhesive type.	Flock metal The Massilly group (tin plate boxes, marketed in Italy by Verimec Srl) has developed a flocking technique that renders metal pleasantly “warm” and soft to the touch. With no PVCs or solvents, this process enables partially coating the packaging to obtain striking effects and bestowing sensory added value to a material already rich with attributes.
New gestures by simply pressing the soft base of the container, the cosmetic product is dispensed on the skin. This is the most striking feature of Ecodis®, Coradin’s last patent, thereby creating a new gestuality in applying and consuming beauty products. Designed so as to minimize the weight and therefore the use of plastic raw materials, and produced only in 100% recyclable materials, ECODIS also includes an innovative "2 in 1" version. Here too the cartouche opens by pressing the base of the container, thus freeing its contents.
	Outsourcing and innovation The new multilayer monodose strip, that combines the properties of the different polylaminate materials, is the latest product devised by Lameplast (headquartered in Novi di Modena): company with a high vocation to innovate, which has made a name for itself at international level for the functionality, the appeal and the technology content of its containers, as well as for its strong inclination towards customized projects and productions. Within the group, the COC Farmaceutici Health & Beauty Division not only creates single and multidose packaging of various kinds, but also guarantees customers in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic sectors a complete outsourcing service, which includes production, filling and packaging on contract. Needless to say, the company is also ISO 13485 certified.
Invisible pumps the high-end Melodie® brand line of pumps by MeadWestvaco (MWV) comes with mini-casket made from 280 g of Iggesund’s Invercote board, containing the perfume in miniature, which when opened lifts two pop-up cards with the numbers 1 and 9. The luxury sample was assembled by Creanog, but only after the right adhesive from among the 15 tested had been selected, with all the care and expertise necessary for guaranteeing that the pop-ups are lifted at the same time and to the same position. In order to create 60 thousand caskets, 15-20 people were employed for 4 months, for a total of 4,200 hours of work.
	The ribbon that makes the difference Called Love Me Tight, the limited edition FlowerBomb by Victor&Rolf which appeared in the spring at a few exclusive perfume shops, is tied and wreathed by a tangle of ribbons sealed with wax. The simplicity and effectiveness of this decoration (covering both the mouth and the case) was awarded with a special mention in the category “Collections” of the PCD Awards 2012.
Direct relationship Advanced Track & Trace (ATT) has developed technology that enables creating a direct relationship between producers and consumers of goods by associating promotional activities with the safety made possible by product traceability. This exclusive marketing tool, creative and mouldable, brings to the table a variety of functions that enable fostering a privileged relationship with the consumer through his or her cellular phone, king of mass media and increasingly used to access the Internet anywhere, anytime. Tag free Arjowiggins Security has developed a solution for protecting the authenticity of consumption goods that enables achieving traceability for any type of object (or document). Called SignopticTM, it is based on tag-free technology that requires no addition to the product and boasts diverse advantages. First of all, it cannot be counterfeited or imitated, it is compatible with all types of materials and can be combined with other traceability and authentication systems. It automatically generates a unique “signature”, creating no problems in the industrialization phase and is economically advantageous.	Towards total quality SIF 1500 by Tema GmbH is a fully automated 100% inspection system of the metal slugs used among other things in drawing aerosol cans. In these articles, as is known, even the slightest imperfection of the material can seriously compromise the quality of the finished product, resulting in costly downtime. SIF 1500 - which leverages the knowhow gained by Tema in inspecting coins and other small metal objects - examines each slug on both sides, identifying surface defects, contaminants, perimeter defects, variations in thickness, and if required, errors in positioning of the central hole. It is integrated with a fast and delicate handling system and, in the standard processes slugs, up to 58 mm in diameter with a maximum speed of 1000 pcs/min.
	Sleeves for aerosol Sleever International responds, with an ad hoc solution, to the just in time customization demands for aerosols, a valuable option capable of generating economies of space and time during the logistics phase. Called Sleever Aérosol, it employs a new opaque, mass-colored film that enables obtaining backgrounds different from the traditional aluminium or white; a new Helioflex printing technique in up to ten colors, which can be used even on complex shapes; special effects (opaque, metalized, opalescent); relief reproduction (metal, wood, skin…); reproduction of Braille, datamatrix codes, warnings…
An enlightened idea Managing to quickly find the make-up products strewn about the mixed up contents of one’s purse is -  as we all know -  a frustrating and troublesome task. An entertaining solution has been proposed by three students at the prestigious French design school Strate College (Adrien Roth, Geoffrey Decembry, Garnier Guillaume): a LED integrated with the packaging of the beauty product and an app for smart phones that activates a colored light, immediately leading one’s eye to the desired object’s hiding place.
	Saffron spray A patent and two years of development lay at the foundations of a product emblematic of the potentials of spray cans in the food sector. Eau de Safran is saffron already diluted in water and ready to be dispensed, proposed by Foodbiotic in a classic spray can. The solution won an Aerosol & Dispensing Award.
	Spraycans at the dinner the table: a success At the last edition of Aerosol Forum Dispensing, Oriex reproposed the Paris aerosol restaurant, a tasty opportunity to try out the characteristics of food in aerosols on the spot: a way of packaging with a high service content that is gradually gaining the favor of users (what is more including professionals). Prominent on the refreshment stand during the two-day Paris event distributing desserts to round off the midday meal, more importantly, they acted as a "live demo" for Coltivia Polenghi’s packaged food products, the French branch of the Italian brand that specializes in the production of food in aerosol cans. These are mostly ingredients complementary to the preparation of other dishes, packed in a way that keeps them wholesome and healthy (always a risk, typically, in products such as fresh eggs) thereby also facilitating the dispensing and dosing of the same. The range of Polenghi products, including the most technical and interesting characteristics were also illustrated at the show, ranging from fresh eggs (whole ones for omelettes, whipped egg whites and in the formula for browning baked cakes) to chocolate mousse, going by way of vegetable “film” for preserving gastronomic specialties (acting as an alternative to gelatine) and antistick solutions to avoid cakes sticking to the mould.

INNOVATION GRAND PRIX
The 2012 edition of the awards for innovation in packaging design and cosmetic aerosols was particularly poignant, both for the aesthetic and technological content of the winning solutions as well as for the award-winning companies' ability to exploit the less visible qualifying aspects

Here are the winners of various competition categories.

Cosmetic Packaging Design Award 2012

• Hygiene, beauty and personal care - Guerlain, "Orchidee Imperiale" serum (photo 1), Lancôme, "Visionnaire" wrinkle corrector;
• Make-up - Armani "Madre Perla" make-up palette (photo 2); Bourjois "Delice de soleil” bronzer foundation cream; MAC "Haute & Naughty Lash" Mascara (photo 3); Guerlain "Rouge Automatique" lipstick (photo 5);
• Women's Perfume - Chanel, “N°19 Poudré";
• Chanel, “N°19 Poudré" perfume samples;
• Special Editions -  the winner was Armani Parfum with «Acqua Di Gioia Essenza».. Honorable Mentions went to the limited editions of Viktor&Rolf "Flowerbomb"; Diesel, "Only the Brave Captain America."
 
Paris Aerosol &
Dispensing Awards 2012
• Hygiene and Beauty - Tubex, the inner lining process (awarded the "Invisible Black & White" deoderant, Nivea for Men, pictured), L'Oréal Professionnel, "Fix Horizon" fan spray;
• Food & beverage - Foodbiotic, "Safran en spray"; Britvic Plc & Colep, "Turbo Tango" (special mention);
• Pharmacy - TRB Chemedica AG, “Vismed Multi”.

PCD + ADF: a convincing formula
Oriex confirms its capacity to make a large quantity and quality of information and ideas converge into its basic short term, small space and no frills show-conference format.
Last February gave further evidence of this: at the first joint edition, housed in the new Porte de Champerret location, PCD (Cosmetic Packaging Design) and ADF (Aerosol & Dispensing Forum) created a rich and lively event, attended by prestigious concerns (the big brands are on the increase). The shows were pleasant to attend and full of inspiration.
On top of that: The format of the Oriex events has been enriched by integrating the classic B2B exhibition and technical-scientific conferences with collective work sessions, such as the Innovation Workshop involving packaging users and suppliers on topics of common interest, and small happenings: The Paris aerosol restaurant served specialties in spraycans, in the case in point featuring aerosal food packager Coltivia Polenghi.

Lastly, the prestigious awards assigned to the most innovative products, and Oriex’s progressive commitment to communication (ItaliaImballaggio is Oriex’s media partner for Italy), the organizer having multiplied interviews, videos and the wealth of technical information published on its website.
The contents of 2013 We anticipate the subject matter of the talks in the next PCD conference, scheduled for 6th and 7th February 2013 at the Espace Champerret in Paris, once again matched with ADF:
• plastics and bio-renewable materials;
• giving the finishing touches to packaging, working on the "shell" and accessories;
• presentation and promotional packaging on the shelf and at the salespoint;
• metal: forms, depositing techniques and metal effects;
• magnets and magnetic systems;
• ICT for streamlining flows and managing projects and technical documentation;
• beauty, personal care, and electronic aids for the cosmetics industry (e@PCD);
• innovation strategies: technological monitoring and patents.
IN BRIEF Oriex opts for transparency and publishes the list of companies that took part in various ways, at the show and conferences, as visitors or speakers. An undertaking that more than anything else shows the quality of the contacts at the fair (www.pcd-congress.com/fr/info-exposants-liste-participants.php)